Tag Archives: routesetting

Vary your starting points

Routesetting can be a very fun way to be creative with different problems for your rock wall. I find the best way to keep consistently challenging routes is to ensure you vary each of your starting points, including the intital … Continue reading

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Map it out

Before putting the holds up on the wall, I lay out all of the holds on the floor to get an idea for what the route will look like. After a route is built I will record someone completing the … Continue reading

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Use foot chips

I believe that there can’t be too many foot chips.  Foot chips are the key to good, technical climbing.  This applies to all “V” levels. Tip from Nick Marucci, VP Rock Climbing, University at Buffalo Share your climbing or routesetting … Continue reading

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Start with a plan

Have a plan when it comes to setting. See where you want to start and finish. Then figure out the desired difficulty for the problem before setting anything. If you are more experienced and are setting an easier boulder problem, … Continue reading

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Succesful Routesetting

Successful routesetting depends on a few things: The ability to visualize a creative and unique sequence, then transferring those ideas from your mind to the wall, while choosing just the right hand and foot holds to execute the intended sequence. … Continue reading

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Routesetting ideas

While setting, place each climbing hold somewhere between most positive and least positive, that way, if you need to make an adjustment the difficulty of your climb, a simple rotation of the hold might just do the trick. This allows … Continue reading

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Elbow to knee technique

When setting easy to moderate routes, use an elbow to knee route setting technique.  Make sure to set all holds within elbow reach and no more than knee height.  This ensures that climbers of any size and ability can reach … Continue reading

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Routesetting Ratios

Follow the 80/20 philosophy of route setting. Set 20% of your routes at a 5.10 level of difficulty or higher, and set 80% of your routes at less than a 5.10 level of difficulty. This will allow you to draw … Continue reading

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