Category Archives: Tips

Keep it Interesting with Alternative Beta

I think there’s value in setting a route or problem with options for alternative beta. If there’s only one way to do the route, it seems like a waste. Climbers should be able to find their own variations to moves. … Continue reading

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Two Tips for Setting on Shorter Walls

When setting on shorter walls, there are two things that make all the difference: sit-starts and route movement. For walls that are around 25 feet, the total number of possible moves goes down by a lot, making good endurance routes … Continue reading

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Work Out the Kinks

When you are route setting make sure to climb your route a bunch of times to work out the kinks. Make sure they cannot short cut your route unless they earn it depending on the grade you’re shooting for. Also … Continue reading

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Vary your starting points

Routesetting can be a very fun way to be creative with different problems for your rock wall. I find the best way to keep consistently challenging routes is to ensure you vary each of your starting points, including the intital … Continue reading

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Map it out

Before putting the holds up on the wall, I lay out all of the holds on the floor to get an idea for what the route will look like. After a route is built I will record someone completing the … Continue reading

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If the shoe fits…

Don’t be afraid to go for the tighter shoe.  A snug fit will only help your climbing in the end. Tip from University at Buffalo Climbing Club Member

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Keep your symmetry

Try and keep your center of gravity close to the rock, and use both left and right limbs.  Keeping symmetry is very important. Tip from Pankaj Yadav, University at Buffalo Share your climbing or routesetting tip

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Know how to fall

Knowing how to fall is key. You can’t just drop down, that’s a good way to break a leg, you need to push away from the wall slightly, and also don’t try to fall flat on your back, try and … Continue reading

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Don’t be in a rush

Take your time and be sure not to rush moves.  Be confident in your movements. Tip from Ian Laing Share your climbing or routesetting tip

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Use foot chips

I believe that there can’t be too many foot chips.  Foot chips are the key to good, technical climbing.  This applies to all “V” levels. Tip from Nick Marucci, VP Rock Climbing, University at Buffalo Share your climbing or routesetting … Continue reading

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