Category Archives: Blog

Know your center

The awareness of your center of gravity is key for gaining stability, moving off of holds, and making the hold as positive as they can be. Tip from Nick Marucci, VP Rock Climbing, University at Buffalo Share your climbing or … Continue reading

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Imagine success

Figure out the route in my head first then imagine myself do it and then do it. Tip from Anonymous Share your climbing or routesetting tip

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Start with a plan

Have a plan when it comes to setting. See where you want to start and finish. Then figure out the desired difficulty for the problem before setting anything. If you are more experienced and are setting an easier boulder problem, … Continue reading

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Keeping calm

I try to be as calm and collective as possible and this helps me to think more about the moves and i tend not to “panic” on harder moves. Tip from Wiliam Sundeen Share your climbing or routesetting tip

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Relax and breathe

Stay relaxed and breathe, there is nothing more important when trying to climb your hardest. Tip from John Bantle, Niagara Climbing Center Share your climbing or routesetting tip

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Funky climbing positions

When I climb I try to find the funkiest body positions as possible. The closer your body gets to the wall, the less energy you have to waste. Getting a great foot hold or wedge is essential in difficult problems. … Continue reading

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Succesful Routesetting

Successful routesetting depends on a few things: The ability to visualize a creative and unique sequence, then transferring those ideas from your mind to the wall, while choosing just the right hand and foot holds to execute the intended sequence. … Continue reading

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Deadpointing

When deadpointing, aim two inches past the climbing hold for your best chance of grabbing it.  Also, think about putting your shoulder past the hold.

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Elbow to knee technique

When setting easy to moderate routes, use an elbow to knee route setting technique.  Make sure to set all holds within elbow reach and no more than knee height.  This ensures that climbers of any size and ability can reach … Continue reading

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Routesetting Ratios

Follow the 80/20 philosophy of route setting. Set 20% of your routes at a 5.10 level of difficulty or higher, and set 80% of your routes at less than a 5.10 level of difficulty. This will allow you to draw … Continue reading

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