The Top 9 Routesetting Tips from Franklin Handholds Fans

We get so many great tips from our fans, about everything from knowing how to fall, movement strategies, to routesetting. With all the submissions we’ve gotten, we’d like to highlight the most popular tips: tips for routesetters.

We’ve gathered all the best routesetting tips we’ve gotten into one place; thanks everyone for the submissions!

Have a new tip that isn’t listed here? Submit your tips to Franklin to see it on our homepage!

The Best Routesetting Tips from Fans of Franklin Handholds

When you are route setting make sure to climb your route a bunch of times to work out the kinks. Make sure they cannot short cut your route unless they earn it depending on the grade you’re shooting for. Also try to make it fun and interesting because no one wants to climb something painful, that is what outside is for.

-Tip from Anthony Lamborghini

Routesetting can be a very fun way to be creative with different problems for your rock wall. I find the best way to keep consistently challenging routes is to ensure you vary each of your starting points, including the intital hand and foot positioning.

The difference between beginning with pockets, crimps, and other offsetting starts really helps in training your strength in each of your holds. Make sure the variation of difficulty is prominent, as easy holds are needed moreso than difficultly rated routes. Starting with routes placing your hands in different holds and good positioning from first footies to the next is also very important.

Remember, feet placement and control is one of the most important aspects of a good and effective climber. Also, remember to focus on the open-hand grip moreso than the crimp grip during training. Don’t be afraid to mix up your route problems often and really challenge yourself as you improve. Most im portantly, let your body rest in between and have fun!

-Tip from Josh Stephens

Before putting the holds up on the wall, I lay out all of the holds on the floor to get an idea for what the route will look like. After a route is built I will record someone completing the route (for the easiest routes, to the hardest routes) and upload them to the sign-in computer so if someone has a questions on how to start a route or how to attack a route, they will have a video they can watch to help them out.

-Tip from Patrick Edwards, Ashland University

I believe that there can’t be too many foot chips. Foot chips are the key to good, technical climbing. This applies to all “V” levels.

-Tip from Nick Marucci, VP Rock Climbing, University at Buffalo

Have a plan when it comes to setting. See where you want to start and finish. Then figure out the desired difficulty for the problem before setting anything. If you are more experienced and are setting an easier boulder problem, try having less-experienced climbers try your problem as you’re setting it.

-Tip from Julianne Stiene, University at Buffalo

Successful routesetting depends on a few things: The ability to visualize a creative and unique sequence, then transferring those ideas from your mind to the wall, while choosing just the right hand and foot holds to execute the intended sequence. The climbers should be challenged to learn something about themselves or their climbing abilities, no matter their respective skill levels. To me, the presentation also matters; it should look appealing to climbers. More often than not in the gym environment, the best looking problems and routes get the most traffic.

Learning to be as efficient as possible is also very helpful for commercial routesetting; learn from prior mistakes. Both climbing and routesetting, like anything else, require lots of practice; experience matters. And most importantly, it’s all about having FUN!

-Tip from J. D. Cantrell

While setting, place each climbing hold somewhere between most positive and least positive, that way, if you need to make an adjustment the difficulty of your climb, a simple rotation of the hold might just do the trick. This allows you to be more efficient and keeps you from constantly swapping holds on and off your climb.

-Tip from Zach Warner

When setting easy to moderate routes, use an elbow to knee route setting technique. Make sure to set all holds within elbow reach and no more than knee height. This ensures that climbers of any size and ability can reach a set of climbing holds.

-Tip from Anonymous

Follow the 80/20 philosophy of route setting. Set 20% of your routes at a 5.10 level of difficulty or higher, and set 80% of your routes at less than a 5.10 level of difficulty.

This will allow you to draw a larger audience of climbers, as your beginning and intermediate climbers will be successful in reaching the top but there will still be enough difficult terrain to engage your more expert climbers.

-Tip from Anonymous

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